In exceptionally simple terms, there are 3 main plans used. You need to be able to hop between game plans quickly as the action of the game unfolds.

The Blockade

This is composed of creating a 6-deep wall of pieces, or at a minimum as deep as you are able to achieve, to block in the competitor’s pieces that are on your 1-point. This is considered to be the most acceptable course of action at the start of the match. You can assemble the wall anywhere within your 11-point and your 2-point and then shuffle it into your home board as the game continues.

The Blitz

This consists of locking your home board as quick as as you can while keeping your challenger on the bar. For example, if your challenger rolls an early two and moves one piece from your one-point to your 3-point and you then roll a 5-5, you are able to play six/one 6/1 eight/three 8/3. Your challenger is now in big-time dire straits because they have two checkers on the bar and you have closed half your inner board!

The Backgame

This tactic is where you have two or more anchors in your opponent’s home board. (An anchor spot is a point consisting of at a minimum two of your pieces.) It needs to be used when you are decidedly behind as it greatly improves your circumstances. The best locations for anchor spots are towards your opponent’s lower points and either on adjacent points or with a single point separating them. Timing is crucial for an effectual backgame: after all, there is no point having 2 nice anchors and a complete wall in your own inner board if you are then forced to break up this straight away, while your opponent is shifting their pieces home, owing to the fact that you do not have other extra pieces to move! In this case, it is more tolerable to have checkers on the bar so that you are able to preserve your position until your challenger provides you an opportunity to hit, so it can be a great idea to try and get your challenger to hit them in this situation!